Kailas-Manasarovar: The abode of Lord Shiva and cosmic centre of the universe

On the map, it is simply referred to as Mt Kailas (6,714 m). But the phallic finger of rock commanding the towering Kailas range in western Tibet is sacred to two of the world's greatest religions. The Tibetan Buddhists call it the Gangs-ri-tise, or Snow Mountain, and it is identified in Buddhist cosmography as Mt Sumeru, the cosmic centre of the universe.The Hindus worship it as the abode of Lord Shiva and his consort Gauri. South of the Kailas range lies lake Manasarovar, recognised as the highest body of fresh water in the world (4,557m). Both Mt Kailas with its majestic snow-topped peak and Manasarovar with its crystal-clear turquoise-coloured water have been the object of pilgrimages since time immemorial, and the routes for the devout are prescribed in the Hindu scriptures: the Sanskrit playwright Kalidasa refers to them in his work.For decades, the inaccessibility of the natural shrines and the physical effort required to get there deterred all but the most hardy and dedicated pilgrims. Even after the communist occupation of Tibet, Article 3 of the 1954 Sino-lndian agreement specifically guaranteed access to the area, but the conflict of 1962 resulted in borders being sealed off and Manasarovar and Kailas became a half-forgotten memory for Indians, although Nepalese pilgrims were allowed to visit the area. Last month, the route was reopened following Chinese Foreign Minister Huang Hua's visit to India.The first Indian pilgrims at Lipu Lekh pass with Gurla Mandhata in the backgroundThe morning of September 18 was bright and clear, but an icy wind was blowing as the pilgrims laboured the last few metres to the top of Lipu Lekh pass (5,425m) for their first view of Tibet. Before them lay a narrow valley leading to a river.Beyond the river the flat, barren stretches of the steppes receded into the distance. Dominating the landscape was the imposing massif of Gurla Mandhata (7,728 m) with its triple summits, the last barrier between the pilgrims and Kailas-Manasarovar.Of the original 18 who had set out from the road head of Tawaghat, 15 remained including the lone woman pilgrim, Nirmal Joshi, 40. Two had dropped out at the end of the first day's walk after being declared unfit. On the fourth day, another member dropped out because of exhaustion. The strain of walking on irregular terrain had begun to tell on the others, and seven members, including the two members of Parliament Dr Subramaniam Swamy and Harish Rawat hired horses for the last stretch from Biddu to Lipu.The Sinking Highway skirts Rakshas TalLipu was something of an anti-climax. Instead of the widely expected group of Chinese officials and military emplacements, a scraggy quintet of Tibetan villagers welcomed the party with horses for everybody. The four-hour ride to Taklakot was a harrowing experience, as there were no well-defined paths. Crossing the Karnali river over a rickety log -bridge, the group entered the Tibetan village of Pulang Chong.Dirty Village:The village was an eye-opener, a dingy ensemble of crumbling mud-walled houses, narrow unclean lanes, and villagers covered in dust and grime. As the pilgrims trotted into Pulang Chong, the younger inhabitants looked on poker-faced. Only the elders greeted the visitors from India with 'namaste' and a wistful gleam in their eyes.The ruins of Gosul GompaThe group forded a river, entered Taklakot and encountered Chinese official dom in the burly form of Mr Lee, 42, a taciturn man who was to be the guide and interpreter for the party. Lee directed the Indians through a two-and-a-half-hour customs and immigration check during which every item of luggage was pawed over minutely.Even the diplomatic passport holders, including the two MPs, were not spared. Finally, after a payment of one yuan per individual, a special pilgrimage visa was issued and the party was conducted to the newly-built but sparsely furnished pilgrims' hotel.Taklakot, a famous 'mandi' of old, is today a military garrison and the administrative centre of the Ari district of the Tibet Autonomous Region. The old village clings to the right bank of the Karnali and contains the Tibetan population. Indian pilgrims take an early morning dip in Manasarovar LakeThe new township is on the left bank about three kilometres downstream from the old mandi and the ruins of the ancient Sibling Gompa (Buddhist shrine).The new area contains the government buildings, living quarters for the police and civilian officials, the pilgrim hotel and the garrison. There is also a commune, although the Indians were not allowed to visit it.Progress has obviously not reached the area, and Tibetans still eke out an austere living by trading in yaks and sheep. Agriculture is a doubtful proposition in the rocky lands but the Chinese are trying to break new ground, and a few tractors and power tillers lay around in Taklakot. But electricity was provided - only for the official areas - by an old oil fuelled generator for a couple of hours each evening.Rough Journey: The next morning, the party split into two, and the main party left for Tarchen by truck and jeep. The 110-km drive over the Sinkiang highway was a frightening experience as the Khampa drivers seemed intent on breaking every cross country record in the book. Pulang Chong a dingy little Tibetan villageHowever, the braver members were able to take in the spectacular view of Gurla Mandhata and, once across the Gurla pass, a breath-taking view of the dark blue water of the Rakshas Tal, associated with Ravana, who is said to have meditated here to obtain his destructive powers from Lord Shiva. Even now, belief has it that the water impart a burning sensation to anyone who touches it.Driving down to the level of the lake, the truck forded a small hill and gave the party its first view of Manasarovar, quietly shimmering in the afternoon sun. The party drove on to Tarchen, where one group headed for Kailas and the other for Manasarovar.Armed Chinese escorts at Dolma LaTarchen is a hamlet with a small 'gompa'. The walls are crumbling but the paintings are still intact. A few old Buddhist lamas still live here. At Tarchen, three guides arrived: Khampa horsemen armed with carbines. Travelling due west from Tarchen, the group climbed around the base of Kailas and then along its north face.There was no sign of the famous monasteries of Kailas; the destruction of the places of worship leaving only a few prayer tablets and a few 'chortens (graves of lamas) was ascribed to the now notorious Gang of Four and the cultural revolution of the '60s. Religious painting at TarcheThe winding route was deserted except for a few Tibetan families with their yaks on the hillside doing theparikrama. Among them were an old couple, and a young woman who had just lost her husband.Cooking their own meals and spending the nights shivering in thin tents in sub-zero temperatures was a new and uncomfortable experience for most of the pilgrims and the toughest part of the trip lay ahead. The climb to Dolma La (5,580m) was, however, finally achieved by the Indians.The Manasarovar group covered about 24 km a day and finished theparikramaof the lake in four days. During the circuit, they came across the ruins of the seven 'gompas' which had originally ringed the lake-mute testimony to the methodical destruction of a culture.An aged Tibetan couple doing the Kailas-Manasarovar At Manasarovar, the ritual dip was taken; one member, on a challenge, plunged into the waters nude, thus becoming perhaps the first streaker in China. The party was then driven back to Taklakot, each member was asked to pay 166 yuans (Rs 900) for expenses. This seemed a cheap price to pay for the privilege of being the first Indians in a long time to travel in one of the holiest places on earth.Published By: AtMigration Published On: Oct 30, 2013 08:03 IST--- ENDS ---

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Kailas-Manasarovar: The abode of Lord Shiva and cosmic centre of the universe

On the map, it is simply referred to as Mt Kailas. But the phallic finger of rock commanding the towering Kailas range in western Tibet is sacred to two of the world's greatest religions.

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