A slice of heaven | Aangan at BrijRama Palace, Varanasi

Tourists usually travel to experience life; but people come to Benaras to die,” proffers our 20-something-year-old server, somewhat sagely as he ladles out the palak paneer. Impromptu existential wisdom served over lunch from Gen Z wait staff at a 214-year-old palace-hotel is just one of the many anachronisms that make Varanasi endlessly fascinating. The majestic BrijRama Palace that piles up lofty over the dancing Ganga, is a poetic example of this unity of opposites.

A former seat of the erstwhile king of Darbhanga, this heritage property recently launched its new signature restaurant, Aangan, which serves a Michelin-worthy, 10-course set vegetarian menu that weaves together a historical narrative of the passage of time. This multi-sensory immersive journey celebrates the region’s royal legacy, with each creation crafted as a lyrical paean to the traditions of three storied guardians of the palace.

Literally meaning ‘courtyard’, this was the venue that played host to the erstwhile king of Darbhanga, where he used to watch classical musical performances. The elegant decor does its memories proud by wearing its vintage patina with lan; while the ten-course degustation menu preys on memory and metaphor to celebrate local and seasonal ingredients with contemporary flair.

The ten courses are divided in three sections, with each rooted in the legacies of its three guardians: Sridhara Narayana Munshi, the Maratha architect empahasising artistry and fortitude, whose belief in astrology and fortifications inspires the opening courses; Rameshwar Singh, the Maharaja of Darbhanga, a patron of art, stories, recipes and spiritual pursuits whose influence summons drama and devotion to the menu; and Arvind Kumar, the cultural visionary and sustainability advocate, immortalised through modern expressions of Banarasi tradition.

The amuse bouche is a savoury kalachakra-shaped achappam biscuit with a rich filling, paired with peas and curry leaf, as an ode to Sridhara Narayana Munshi’s craze for constellations. The tender coconut ceviche, delicately infused with jasmine oil and lemon is artfully balanced with a cold leaf betel broth bringing alive sacred traditions. The hearty main course begins with a rich buttermilk curry infused with traditional spices and simmered with fresh vegetables is a soulful, comforting rendition that reflects the spiritual heritage and royal lineage of the Dharbhanga royal family.

The denouement of this historical pantomime celebrates the Kumar family in its final three courses, featuring refreshing elixirs and luscious desserts. Infused with the delicate notes of saffron layered with the fragrance of florals, the luscious Malliyo spins a cloudy foam of malai (cream), paired with kesar gel and a pistacio brittle and almond tuille. Of course, do ration your appetite to save space and calories for the decadent Rasmalai Tres Leche cake that preserves the grand Banarasi tradition with exquisite ease. The theatre of tradition culminates in a symbolic mithai box that pays tribute to all three guardians, cobbling together tradition and tastes. Of course, this is one dining experience that quickly transforms into a cultural memory, which simply humms on your tongue. They say, everyone wants a piece of heaven, but no one wants to die. Here’s enjoying heaven, and living it up to tell the tale. Welcome to Benaras!

Where: Aangan, BrijRama Palace, Darbhanga Ghat, Varanasi

Price: Rs. 14,000 +++ (Cost of meal for two )