The caffeine high | Indian coffee liqueurs

There’s pleasure in imbibing a well crafted drink, be it a Negroni or a pour-over coffee. No longer are spirits an evening-only play, neither coffee a mere morning ritual. India has been witnessing a craft movement in both, and their coming together is only natural.

The growing vocabulary of coffee has fuelled the craft and speciality produce culture. It’s not only visible in coffee shops, it has also entered our kitchens, and kindled conversations about grinds, roasts, and brewing techniques. A similar conversation has been taking centrestage with our spirits, whether it’s Indian gins, single malt whiskies, feni, or rums—narratives encircle quality of the base spirit, botanicals used, provenance, oak quality, ageing conditions, and more. Interestingly, these two are among the fastest growing craft segments in the world, and their coming together is kindling a new breed of drinks, what I have christened ‘coffee-accented tipples’.

QUAFFINATION

Coffee came to India when Baba Budan smuggled a few beans from his pilgrimage in the 17th century, and planted them on a hill, accidentally turning India into a coffee-drinking nation. Quaffine is India’s first cold brew coffee liqueur, made with Chikmagalur sourced 100% Arabica coffee. “An introduction to the perfect cup of filter coffee during my travels to Chennai fuelled this movement”, shares Olson Pereira, Quaffine’s co-founder. And much like that one sip in Chennai, they knew a small sip is enough to leave an impression. “There’re similar patterns evident in the consumption of craft spirits and specialty coffees in India. The desire for authenticity, unique flavours, and passionate storytelling have led to the rise of such tipples. It’s imperative that spirit-makers too shift from generic to craft coffee that excites contemporary evolving palates”. There are unexplored varieties of coffees, brewing styles, sweetness quotients, and then comes the mix of sweet spices, creams, single lots, and limited releases. Clearly, there’s a lot more to come.

Price Goa: Rs. 1,850 (750ml); Mumbai, Thane, Pune: Rs. 2,850; Delhi: Rs. 1,790; Gurgaon: Rs. 1,800–2,000; Bangalore: Rs. 3,170; Internationally, Quaffine is available in Thailand, Kenya and Ghana.

HERITAGE IN A BOTTLE

Hansel Vaz is the force behind feni’s growing mantel in the country. Cazulo was already producing cashew, coconut, and dukshiri feni. Now the offering is joined by a coconut feni distilled with coffee, called ‘Cafe Conserva’. “It’s not just another product, but a way of bringing back a fading heritage, and the story of Goa”, Vaz claims. He passionately narrates the story of how the Portuguese were shocked to find coffee growing in Goa when they first arrived. Every house had their own coffee bushes, and as a guest, you were not only served fresh, good coffee, you drank ‘hosts’ self-grown coffee’. The Portuguese took coffee to Brazil, which changed their culture and economy, and in return, brought cashew to Goa, which kindled the magnificent art of feni production, that’s now synonymous with the state. He adds that after the second World War, instant coffee entered India, and people would simply add a sachet to their feni and drink it in the morning, coining the term ‘Cafe Conserva’. “Coffee keeps changing with each harvest, so does feni. That’s why we produce Cazulo Cafe Conserva in very small batches of, distilling it every 15-20 days, so that when you open the bottle, you’re greeted with a hauntingly beautiful aroma”. Now, would you say, it’s just another bottle for your collection?

Price Goa: Rs. 950 (750ml)

COFFEE COCKTAILS, ANYTIME

Espresso Martini was the most consumed cocktail during the COVID lockdown, and probably still is! Catching the momentum early on was the covid-baby, Mr. Jerry’s Cocktails. These were pre-made, technically-sound cocktails, that barely needed any tools to whip out an impressive, consistent, gram-worthy concoction. Rincy Verghese shares “bartenders using coffee in their tipples is rather recent, and it has brought coffee to the fore. There’s greater awareness about craft spirits, more disposable income, and experiential drinking. Coffee-accented tipples fit right in”. Goa has the culture of going-out, and mingling with the community. During COVID, that couldn’t happen and people were missing well-made drinks. That’s where the idea stuck, and birthed Mr. Jerry’s Cocktails. Even after the pandemic now, there are bars that wish to serve well-made cocktails, but don’t necessarily have trained bartenders. “They have good food, good music, good service, but who’s making good cocktails”, questions Verghese. The chances are, when you’re sipping a well made Espresso Martini on Goa’s beaches or at a sleepy cafe, you’re probably drinking Mr. Jerry’s Cocktails Espresso Martini.

Price Goa: Rs. 650 (500ml priced); Delhi: Rs. 715; Maharashtra: Rs. 1,300; Karnataka: Rs. 1,300

NORTH MEETS SOUTH

Think of coffee and you’re naturally drawn towards Southern India. Bandarful Himalayan Coffee Liqueur is not attempting to alter that, only add to it. In a way, it’s a celebration of India’s extraordinary terroir, by bringing together two of its most iconic landscapes: Chikmagalur’s lush Arabica estates meets Kumaon’s pure Himalayan spring water. “We also wanted a brand that felt joyful and expressive, hence the playful spirit of the Himalayan Langur, the “Bandar,” that represents curiosity, freedom and adventure”, explains Ansh Khanna, co-founder of Himmaleh Spirits. What makes it interesting is not just the name, the labelling, and the spirit in itself, but the thought that it provokes. Bandarful is an interesting way of telling the Indian story through the plethora of flavour, country’s diverse offerings, and the craftsmanship it boasts of. But why not a coffee rum, or a coffee gin, I enquired. “Coffee liqueurs work brilliantly in cocktails, over ice, as digestifs, or even as dessert companions. This flexibility appeals to both casual drinkers and cocktail enthusiasts”, adds Khanna. And that makes sense. The versatility of the liqueur definitely makes it multi-dimensional.

Price Delhi: Rs. 1,570; Haryana: Rs. 1,600; Uttarakhand: Rs. 1,840; Goa: Rs. 1,850

CELEBRATING THE EAST

While Indian producers are connecting the origins play of various influences of the country, Eekh’s Nolen Gur Coffee Rum Liqueur accentuates it further. The liqueur is birthed from a collaboration between Goa’s Eekh Rum, and Indore’s Siolim Coffee Roasters, that’s sweetened with Bengal’s Nolen Gur. When was the last time you had Nolen Gur in your bottle of spirit? Chances are, never! Created from the sap of fresh date palm, Nolen Gur lends a distinct toasty, caramely, nutty profile to the mix, with a melt-in-your-mouth texture. The jaggery was awarded a GI Tag in 2022, recognising its uniqueness, and adding it to India’s elaborate heritage that the world too now celebrates. “Enthusiasts enjoy discovering coffee in new formats, while experimental drinkers are drawn to the unique flavour profiles. Many also appreciate the slightly stimulating character and aromatic comfort that coffee-based spirits bring, especially in cocktails and dessert-style drinks”, says Simian Singh, co-creator of the spirit

Price Goa: Rs. 1,610 (750ml); Available only in Goa

Of course, these aren’t the only brews that have helped craft the new narrative around coffee-accented tipples. There’s Segrado Aldeia’s Cafe Rum, Greater Than’s No Sleep Gin, Old Monk’s XO Cafe, and Stranger & Sons’ Filtr as examples of experiments with nearly every format of alcohol, not just spirits. Moonshine Meadery’s Coffee Mead, BIRA91’s Malabar Stout, and Paapi’s Coffee Absinthe are only a few that have sung for the cause. While these developments are exciting, they come with a caveat: The risk of overcomplicating can deter the consumer from trying. Then, there’s a chance that too many labels or simply trying to jump on the wave may leave the segment confused and crowded. While these can be concerns for the future, for the present moment, it’s time to return to our tables, relish a sip, appreciate the good life, and the tipples that make it worthwhile.